People had told me that I wouldn't believe what a special meal food services would prepare for Thanksgiving. They were right! But it was nothing short of astonishing. People were all dressed up for the occasion, some in outfits like you'd expect back in the states for a big family get-together and others in McMurdo chic. Like a dress and basic issue, blue Asics Tiger FDX boots (these are issued for people going to the really cold places like the Pole or people going to be out all day long unprotected.) There was a definite style and flair. The line began outside the galley at least 30 minutes before dinner and there were 3 scheduled sittings at 2 hour intervals.
There were both turkey rolls and 2 carvers slicing off birds recognizable as turkeys. Several different iterations of mashed potatoes and sweet potatoes. Gravy, of course. An apple and sausage stuffing that was phenomenal. Fresh roasted asparagus. Several other vegetables. Rolls and fresh breads. The vegetarians were not forgotten, either. The dessert table rotated during the evening but I'd guess that there were at least a dozen different desserts, including the traditional pumpkin and apples pies, torts, cakes, fresh strawberries and fresh strawberries dipped in chocolate. There was a dark chocolate layer cake with cherries between the layers, topped with a dark chocolate icing/glaze. That one was so good that I had to go back just to convince myself it was as good as my first impressions said it was. And it was. Most people had wine and it flowed freely (the galley is normally dry with the exception of Saturday nights.). sorry, Kathi--no tomato aspic. No Mama Stamburg's relish, either. The cooks were brought out to the galley by a long and extended standing ovation. They certainly deserved it. We were finally scooted out after 1.5 hours so that they could strip the tables of the linens and do the whole thing all over again for the next sitting.
The only downside: a person from the kitchen was discovered drinking on the job and immediately fired. Flown out two days later on the first flight north. As they say, it's a harsh continent.
Imagine a holiday dedicated to glorifying gluttony!
Scott Base holds a certain fascination for the Americans here. They take a shuttle over on Thursday evening for American Night at their bar. They take a shuttle over on the half hour on Sundays to visit their shop. They tramp over every day to shop some more during open hours. Is shopping genetic? A drive for the less familiar and more exotic? To fill an empty niche in our souls?
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| An LC-130 taking off from the Ice Ski-way.
The Ice Runway (or Ski-way) is built on annual sea ice. The temperatures are getting up to to the point where its strength is diminishing. On December 3rd the Ice Runway will be closed and all operations will move to Pegasus Field. The entire Ice Runway Town will be disassembled; Pegasus Town is currently being built. The advantage of Pegasus is that it is on the Ross Ice Shelf, a glacier floating on the Ross Sea. In places the ice shelf is hundreds of feet thick. The disadvantage is that a trip from McMurdo to Pegasus Field can take an hour. That's why it is worth all the effort to keep the Ice Runway operating as long as possible and not just permanently using Pegasus.
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| You just can't keep those kids down! Over the Thanksgiving weekend I hiked over to Scott Base and returned via the backside of Ob Hill. Among other things, that is where the Americans go snowboarding. The Kiwis have their own slope and it's rumored to be much better. |
I think this is what is called a ventifact, a piece of rock shaped by the wind. It is a piece of sandstone found on a slope that is otherwise almost entirely basaltic. That in itself is a bit odd. The wind doesn't seem to have the same effect on the basalt, perhaps due to hardness, but it's created a form of desert pavement by blowing away the fine materials.
People had told me that I wouldn't believe what a special meal food services would prepare for Thanksgiving. They were right! But it was nothing short of astonishing. People were all dressed up for the occasion, some in outfits like you'd expect back in the states for a big family get-together and others in McMurdo chic. Like a dress and basic issue, blue Asics Tiger FDX boots (these are issued for people going to the really cold places like the Pole or people going to be out all day long unprotected.) There was a definite style and flair. The line began outside the galley at least 30 minutes before dinner and there were 3 scheduled sittings at 2 hour intervals.
There were both turkey rolls and 2 carvers slicing off birds recognizable as turkeys. Several different iterations of mashed potatoes and sweet potatoes. Gravy, of course. An apple and sausage stuffing that was phenomenal. Fresh roasted asparagus. Several other vegetables. Rolls and fresh breads. The vegetarians were not forgotten, either. The dessert table rotated during the evening but I'd guess that there were at least a dozen different desserts, including the traditional pumpkin and apples pies, torts, cakes, fresh strawberries and fresh strawberries dipped in chocolate. There was a dark chocolate layer cake with cherries between the layers, topped with a dark chocolate icing/glaze. That one was so good that I had to go back just to convince myself it was as good as my first impressions said it was. And it was. Most people had wine and it flowed freely (the galley is normally dry with the exception of Saturday nights.). sorry, Kathi--no tomato aspic. No Mama Stamburg's relish, either. The cooks were brought out to the galley by a long and extended standing ovation. They certainly deserved it. We were finally scooted out after 1.5 hours so that they could strip the tables of the linens and do the whole thing all over again for the next sitting.
The only downside: a person from the kitchen was discovered drinking on the job and immediately fired. Flown out two days later on the first flight north. As they say, it's a harsh continent.
Imagine a holiday dedicated to glorifying gluttony!
I went back for a sixth and seventh visit to the Ob Tube. Good thing too since they removed it on the 30th. The quality of the sea ice was deteriorating on the approach and it was only a matter of time. There were white, 6-inch jelly fish propelling their way past the window. Lots of krill. We heard the calls of seals but another friend actually saw a seal pass by the tube 5 feet away. When we surfaced, a seal was hauled out and completely oblivious to us. They generate enough heat laying there that they melt a shallow indentation itno the ice. Even with the tube removed, this will be a great place to come back to to watch the seals.
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| Weddell seal. Blissfully unaware of the bloody seal genocide of 100 years ago. Rest sweetly. |
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Scott Base |
The entire base is painted a single color. It's much more modern than McMurdo and the various parts are mostly all connected by enclosed hallways, so there's no need to bundle up and scurry between buildings. I suspect the reason is that it was either much more recently established than McMurdo or it recently replaced something much older. McMurdo has been stitched together piece by piece over the years with little central plan. Thus the Mine Shaft Modern Eclectic style at McMurdo.
As the open water of the Southern Ocean gets closer and closer, there is more tidal action on the sea ice and open pools are created along the shore in places. This one gets used by the Weddells from time to time.
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| Holiday Greetings! |
great to see you, mike! thot about you on thanksgiving and wondered how you would fare. i remember spending a thanksgiving alone in japan some time ago... so i was feeling sympathetic, i guess. but i'm glad your meal was joyous. keep warm. be well. love the blog!
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