Cold, Dry, and Far South: 18 January--Emperors Rule! The Ships Arrive!

For the last few days there have been a group of 3 Emperor penguins hanging out at Half Way House on the road out to Pegasus Field. I'm told it's common for molting penguins to stay in one place during the molting season. I was able to get within 5 or 6 meters of them without causing them any anxiety, but I think if I had had more time and could have gone down on my knees or--better yet--slithered along the snow, I could have gotten within 2 or 3 meters.

There are stories going around about how to get close to penguins by arousing their natural curiosity, which they are are full of. One reputed way is to waddle about on your knees. Depending on your height, this might just put you at about eye level for an Emperor penguin. A second way is to slither along on your belly the way Adelies and perhaps Emperors do. Another way is to wave your arms like they flap their stubby little wings. There is one story of a person who was able to get so close to an unidentified penguin that he reached his hand out to touch the penguin's wing. The penguin swatted it away so forcefully that it broke his hand. Don't mess with a penguin!

The two expected ships also came in a few days ago. The Swedish icebreaker/research vessel Oden arrived first, forcing a way through the thicker than expected sea ice. The Nathaniel B. Palmer, a NSF chartered ship, was not far behind The Oden continues to keep the way open and the Palmer is docked at the floating ice pier. Many of the scientists aboard both vessels flew out early this morning for Christchurch and are being replaced by others who flew in yesterday. The Oden will be around until after the tanker and the freighter arrive in two weeks or so. The Palmer will be leaving tomorrow at some time for a 2 week research trip, then return to McMurdo for refueling, and go immediately out for another two weeks.

The Oden rounding Hut Point and coming in to the floating ice pier.

The Oden further out in the Sound.

The Oden.

The most pleasant thing about getting the ships here was getting to see my good friend George Aukon. He's been working on the ships for the last 3 years, but has worked for Raytheon now for 6 or 7 years as an electronics technician. George and I met down in Costa Rica in 1991 at a Project R.A.F.T. ("Russians and Americans for Teamwork") international whitewater competition. We helped him and his family move to Flagstaff and they all became American citizens. One of the years down here, the American icebreaker apparently broke a prop and couldn't continue. A Russian icebreaker was hurriedly contracted to clear the way. George was lateraled over to be the Russian and English speaking liaison aboard the ship. On board were a number of people that he knew from his Arctic service in the Soviet navy.